Here are the instructions for the ooobop floral mini skirt. Please click here to see more images of the finished article in the last post.
1.5m x 115cm wide lightweight fabric. (I think mine was a cotton blend)
lightweight fusible interfacing for waistband
20cm invisible zip
Please note: If using wider fabric the skirt will be fuller.
I have worked the fullness based roughly on 3 x my waist measurement
The length of my skirt from the bottom of the waistband is 36cm, so please account for more fabric if you want a longer length skirt.
To prepare the pieces, either prepare paper pattern or you can draw (with tailors chalk) directly onto the fabric using the following measurements…
- WAISTBAND: width = waist measurement +2cm ease + 3cm seam allowance, depth = 6cm + 3cm seam allowance.
- SKIRT FRONT: width = width of fabric, depth = desired length + 1.5cm seam allowance + 6cm hem allowance.
- SKIRT BACK: same as skirt front but cut in half to get back left and back right.
- SASH: length = width of fabric x 2, depth = 12cm + 3cm seam allowance
Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the waistband.
Press the seam allowances of 1.5 cm on both the long sides of the waistband
Fold in half, wrong sides together, lengthwise and press the fold.
With right sides together, and 1.5cm seam allowance, pin and sew side seams. Press seam open and finish the edges. I just used the zig zag overlocking stitch on my machine.
Mark the centre of the skirt front and the centre of the waistband.
With right sides together, pin the skirt to the waistband at the centre.
Begin pleating outwards from the centre to the back of the skirt. It doesn’t have to be an exact science, but try to keep them roughly the same size. You can measure them out if you prefer. Pin the pleats as you go. I found it easier to do a few from the front and a few from the back and then fill in the centre ones! Remember to keep 1.5 cm seam allowance free for the back zip and seam. I pleated the other half in the opposite direction so there was one ‘box’ pleat at the front.
You can baste the pleats at this stage to see if you are happy with the finish or if you are as impatient as me, you can now stitch the skirt to the waistband with 1.5 seam allowance, unpinning as you go.
You do not need to finish this edge. Press the seam up towards the centre fold of the waistband.
Edge finish the back opening edges.
Open your invisible zip and pin the right side of the zip to the right side of the fabric. (by the ‘right’ side, I mean the correct side!)
Position the pull-tab close to the fold of the waistband or 5mm below if you prefer to use a hook and eye closure.
Using a zipper foot, and gently pulling the teeth of the zipper back sew close to the teeth from the top down as far as you can go, 1.5cm from the raw edge.
With right sides facing, pin the other side of the zip to the other side of the opening and again sew down as far as you can go. Close the zipper.
Pull the bottom of the zipper up and pinch the seam together underneath it. Pin from this point, down to the bottom of the hem edge and seam with allowance of 1.5cm. Press the seam open. You can then finish sewing the end tab of the zip to the open pressed seam.
At each edge of the waistband, press back seam allowance and then fold down over the top part of the zip and over the pleated seam edge. Give it a light pressing over the pleats.
This is where it starts getting neater! Pin in position (you can baste if you want to be on the safe side) and sew a top stitch all round to enclose the seam edges.
Hand sew the short edges to the zipper tape. and hand sew the hook and eye if you need to.
Fold and press up the hem 6cm and then fold under again to meet the first fold and press again. Stitch hem 5mm from top of pressed hem edge.
To make the sash, with right sides facing, seam the 2 short edges together and press seam open. Fold the sash lengthwise. Do not press but pin raw edges on the long edge. I tapered the ends using a 45 degree angle but this is optional. Seam from one end, lifting foot to rotate at corner and continue seam down to roughly the centre of the long edge. Cut your thread. Leave an opening and then continue sewing down to the other end. Trim your seams and clip the corners (but not too close to the stitching. Turn the right side out and press. Slip stitch the opening by hand.
Your very first ooobop! skirt
Tie the sash at the front, to the side, or at the back. I like it at the back as it makes me feel girly and like Im going to a party!
If you do find any of these instructions unclear or wrong, please do let me know. This is my first set of posted instructions and I’d hate to cause any annoyance!
I would also very much like to know how you got on so if you get round to making one do let me know and If you could post a link back to ooobop! that would be very marvellous!