Who’s afraid of the big bad WELT?

… well maybe I am still, a little bit!

I read and I read (and I huffed and I puffed)…. and still I didn’t pull it off! It just didn’t make any sense to me no matter how many times I read the instructions in the magazine (for my jacket). I need visual reference! My first port of call in times of near defeatism, is YouTube. There is always an amenable person to talk you through anything you want really, with live action video! There were a few tutorials and a few brilliant ones at that but none that included a flap. So next port of call was the Burda site itself and there in all its glory was a fabulously illustrated step by step guide on How To Make A Welt Pocket With A Flap. I followed this to the letter and it all worked out (just about) but then I realised that there wasn’t meant to be a welt at the top of the flap and I didn’t see this working out too well in pinstripe!

welt pocket first try

Welt pocket, first try

But, having followed this tute, I slept on it and woke up the next morning with a moment of clarity. I read the original instructions once more…. Eureka! Now it made sense! I set about trying it out on the second pocket and though a little more fiddly, it worked. Seems so logical now. I don’t know how I managed to get myself in such a pickle!

Welt pocket round 2

Welt pocket round 2

welt pocket marked between seamlines

Welt pocket opening, marked between seamlines

Welt pocket finished, flap up

Welt pocket finished, flap up... bit rough around the edges!

I would change one thing about the intended method though, and that would be to attach the pocket pieces to the welt and the flap before attaching to the jacket. The instructions say to add the pocket pieces to the seam allowances of the welt and the pocket flap after they have been sewn down on the body. You have to be pretty spot on and sew exactly on top of the same seamline as far as I can make out if you dont want any stitching to show….unless I’ve misunderstood that bit too, which is a strong possibility!

I’m toying with the idea of using a plain lilac fabric, or some of the plaid dress fabric, on the bias, for the welt. I think the chance of me getting this right in the heavier wool, let alone matching up the pinstripes, is pretty slim!

Anyhows, this is where I’m at. Glad I cleared that hurdle…. well, best not speak so soon eh?!

I’ll be a while before I get onto the real thing. I still have a collar and lapel to rehearse and I want to be sure that I am confident about every stage before I go steaming in!

In the mean time does anyone have any wise welt words they’d like to share?!

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26 thoughts on “Who’s afraid of the big bad WELT?

  1. Bravo! Sometimes written directions are just not the best way to understand something as multi-dimensional as sewing. Isn’t it interesting how doing it once wrong seems to be the only way to get it right later?

  2. Oh those things are such a headache, you’re doing brilliantly. Now if I am correct in that you’re using the black background strip for this jacket, perhaps a black welt? The only reason I am suggesting such a boring alternative to lilac is that the low contrast will mean utter perfection is not necessary. 🙂 Naughtty eh!

  3. Well done on working it out – I also have trouble with instructions, I’m very bad at visualising frmo a description and need to see a really clear step by step, or just try it myself.

  4. I am a very visual learner like you, so I have a had time with instructions as well. For me, videos are the way forward. Its nice to sleep over things, they always make more sense in the morning. That happens to me alot when I am stuck somewhere with a project. I think you have learned to do the welt pockets the right way because it will be difficult for you to forget how to do it now. Figuring something out for yourself is the usually the best way to master something I think. That way, you can adapt what you have learned to achieve various outcomes.

    • I think the welt pockets are turning out to be the tip of the iceberg. I am about to enter a whole world of tailoring terms and techniques I’ve never heard of! I may be a while!

  5. If you are worried about the lines on your stripe matching (or not) cut the welt and the flap on the bias… looks good and you don’t have to stress so much about matching up. Also, cut the top flap 2.5mm bigger on the sewn sides, and interface it. Cut the underflap in your lining fabric, the size it is in the book. This means it will pull the outer fabric over slightly, and you won’t get any seam lines showing.

  6. OMG seriously…. I wasn’t afraid of the welt until now! HAHAHA…. but for real, sewing instructions are sometimes so hairy, aren’t they? I am such a visual person (sure you probably are too) and if there’s no clear diagram for something that’s utterly new to me, i end up reading and re-reading a bazillion times til finally I just figure ‘you know what, i’m just gonna do it, and if i have to pick stitches then so be it’ LOL. I feel like a tool when the answer becomes clear but it’s such a good feeling, it’s totally worth it!! 🙂 Congrats on nailing this one… when I attempt my first welt I’m coming to you for explanations 😉

  7. Glad I’m not the only one. And you are absolutely right… I do feel like a complete tool once I’ve sussed it and it wasn’t really that difficult after all… but there is a feel good factor too. BTW. I may have nailed the pocket but that might just have been the easiest bit of this jacket it seems!

  8. The welt pocket was my Kryptonite for a long time too! The first time I tried it I started to do a vest with 4 welts pockets… yeah. Luckily, I think I can do one pretty well now – after a ton of practice.

  9. Pingback: Pinstripe Spencer Jacket: the inside story | ooobop!

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